For people around the world, India is synonymous to a tradition of exotic arts and handicrafts.The wide array of traditional crafts reflects the artistic and cultural richness of India. The varied designs and diversity represent the excellent artistic skills of Indian craftsmen. The history of Indian craft goes back almost 5000 years into the past. The first reference to Indian handicrafts can be found in artifacts extracted from the ruins of the Indus Valley civilization.The vast cultural and ethnic diversity of India has allowed a variety of motifs, techniques and crafts to flourish. Each region has, over time, developed its own style, technique and patterns. Indian craft, handed down for centuries from one generation to another, has also been influenced by traditions from around the world. Sakhi strives to keep traditional Indian craftsmanship alive by presenting it in a modern avatar.
Sakhi Crafts
Kalamkari: Literally meaning ‘drawing with a pen’, sarees featuring the kalamkari craft have been adorned by women over the ages. There are two distinct styles of kalamkari – Srikalahasti and Machalipatnam. The fabric gets its glossiness from its immersion in milk and resin. Kalamkari fabrics are created in seventeen steps, using only natural dyes, with numerous washes. Typically, the motifs capture the essence of temple architecture and scenes from great epics. The muted kalamkari motifs in maheshwari silk or cotton are appliquéd onto rich vibrant kanchivaram silks. One can also find this work of art handcrafted on tussar silk, crêpe, chiffon, georgette and cotton. Kalahasti and Masulipatnam located in the state of Andhra Pradesh in south India are well known for various forms of kalamkari. Sakhi borrows from this craft and brings alive the soul of kalamkari with fashionable designs.
Cut-Work: Whether it’s for an evening out or to make one feel beautiful during the day, cut work is a form of fine needlework that complements any hour. In this form of embroidery, portions of the background fabric are cut away and the edges worked over in buttonhole stitches. The applications of this craft include bold elaborate pallus with understated borders hand embroidered with cut work, or unique combinations with complementing block prints.Kerala in south India along with the Banaras and Bengal regions in north India are well known for cut work. Sakhi celebrates cut work on sarees and salwars, adding verve by infusing cut work with tissue appliqué, to make every occasion special.
Shadow Work: A very subtle and interesting form of embroidery, shadow work uses sheer fabric in a manner wherein only the bare outline of a pattern appears on the surface, revealing the crisscrossed threads underneath, creating a ‘shadow’ pattern. It is the opacity of the threads, worked on translucent sheer fabric, which defines this form of embroidery.The ‘herringbone stitch’ reverses the shadow stitch by inverting the right side, revealing the actual thread in place of the shadow. Shadow work appears both delicate and intricate. Sakhi uses this effect in a variety of ways, making its garments versatile and stylish.
Hand-block Printing: One of the earliest and simplest methods of textile printing, Block printing is, very simply put, the printing of patterns on textile using incised wooden blocks. Block printing involves myriad steps, but the most important step is the preparation of the block which determines the quality and clarity of impressions.The block is then dipped in the desired dye and carefully placed adjacent to the preceding impression of the block as per the design. Block print is popular across many Indian states, each region being known for its own, unique variant. Sakhi gives a contemporary twist to block print by combining modern graphic designs with traditional Indian motifs. The key differentiating elements of the designer ensemble are the hues used in varied colour themes.
Sequins/Mirror Work: This craft features minute sequins placed carefully on fabric and stitched by hand. Sequins are glass-like, fragile, decorative elements available in numerous shades featuring either reflective or matte effects.Sakhi weaves this craft in an unconventional fashion on a range of fabrics. Sequins and mirror work, in combination with hand-block print or cut work among other crafts, gives rise to interesting, unique creations.
Badla: The use of metal to embellish textiles has been immensely popular since the Mughal era. Badla is one such ancient technique, where a flattened metal strip (badla) is either laid on the surface of the fabric or by employing a technique called ‘mukesh’, and embroidered through the fabric using its pointed end in place of a needle.This intricate craft recreates a starry night sky when used in combination with black flowing chiffon or flamboyant organza silk.
Appliqué Work: An innovative technique by which patches of contrasting fabrics are superimposed on a base fabric, appliqué work requires the edges of the patches to be sewn using various embroidery stitches.The base cloth is usually coloured, combined with printed or contrasting appliqué material. The choice of thread used can also serve to elevate the colour theme.
This craft can also be combined with mirror work, badla or mukesh to add an element of sparkle.
Ari Work: The word ‘ari’ comes from the hooked needle used in a form of embroidery called ‘aar’. It is similar to the one used in crochet. The fabric is first fixed over a frame, usually made from bamboo, on which a pattern is traced and intricately embroidered using a needle with a hooked end using either zari (gold or silver) or silk thread.Ari appears to be a fine chain stitch. The secret of exquisite ari workmanship is the uniform tension of the thread, maintained throughout. After embroidery, the stitches are beaten using a wooden mallet on to a handheld wooden anvil placed under the fabric.
